I’m exhausted, disgusted,and bored by the assignment of value – “good” or “bad” – to hair, not to mention amazed that we’re still having this ignorant, destructive discussion. In my experience we get a lot more animated talking about hair texture and skin color than we do about education, violence in our communities, the potential of widening war in Afghanistan, health care, or any other issues that are substantive and important.

How about the three new So In Style Black Barbie’s,  with different skin tones, broader noses and fuller lips created by Stacey McBride-Irby, an African American designer at Mattel and mother of two, to be more reflective of  black girls and their communities. Is anyone surprised that this new, more relevant Barbie” comes with mounds of long, thick hair? Why not? Little girls – like their mothers – like to comb, brush, and style hair – picking out a short ‘fro just isn’t the same.

Instead of offering Barbie lovers the either/or of “good” or “bad”, designer McBride-Irby has created a doll that reflects reality, possibility, and, I think, complexity. While I’m not happy that Kara, one of the new Barbie’s,  is dressed like a hoochie from a 50 cent video, her dress reflects reality, like it or not. The good news is it’s not limited to that: according to the designer Kara’s interests include math and music.

At dinner recently with a couple I’d just met, the conversation turned to “Good Hair,” Chris Rock’s documentary opening in select theaters October 9 and nationally October 23.

Before you rush to see it, check out filmmaker Regina Kimbell’s 2007 film, My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey Through Black Hair-itage. On October 6, Kimbell filed a $5 million copyright infringement lawsuit in U.S. District Court in Los Angeles against Rock and HBO, alleging that her idea was stolen after she screened My Nappy Roots for an employee of Rock’s production company in 2007.  Say – and prove – it ain’t so, Chris!

The woman at dinner, 45, had straight hair that fell past her shoulders. When asked if he would have been attracted to her without it, her partner admitted he would not have been. I was more surprised by his honesty than his answer. What was disturbing was her – feigned? – surprise at his response. Surely we all know the potential power of hair, yes? In addition to vanity and conditioning isn’t that one of the reasons we want it?

Our notions of beauty are complex. They are racial, political, economic, cultural and subjective, as are the forces that will or won’t transform them. What we can do is stop ascribing the value of “good” or “bad” to hair. Let’s admit that many, many women, across race and the world, whatever their politics, want long hair by any means necessary: grown, straightened, woven, extended, locked. So what? Wouldn’t it be loverly if we spent as much time thinking about what’s  inside our heads as on top of it?

Jill Nelson, 10/7/09 – The blog with the musical notes!